Understanding Pigmentation: What Your Skin Is Telling You
Pigmentation is natural colouring of our skin, hair and eyes. It’s determined by a pigment called melanin, which is produced by specialised cells known as melanocytes. Melanin’s role is protective, it helps shield the skin from UV damage, but when melanin production becomes uneven or overactive, it can show up as visible pigmentation on the skin.
Pigmentation on the face is one of the most common concerns I treat as a skin therapist. And while it can feel frustrating and confusing, the first step toward calm, confident correction is simply understanding what type of pigmentation you’re dealing with.
Types of Pigmentation
Hyperpigmentation (Dark Spots)
This refers to areas where too much melanin is produced, causing darker patches or spots on the skin. Common forms include:
Melasma (Hormonal Pigmentation)
Melasma appears as brown or greyish patches, most commonly on the face. It’s triggered by hormonal changes such as:
Pregnancy
Birth control
Stress
Thyroid imbalance
It’s very common for woman to develop melasma during pregnancy often forming a soft “butterfly” pattern across the cheeks and nose. Because melasma is hormonally driven, it needs a particularly gentle, consistent and barrier supportive approach.
Sun Spots/ Age Spots (Solar Lentigines)
These are flat, brown spots that develop on sun exposed areas such as the face, hands and chest. They form due to cumulative UV exposure over many years and tend to appear more as we age. They’re one of the most common and most preventable forms of pigmentation.
Freckles (Ephelides)
Freckles are small, light brown spots that are usually genetic and more common in fairer skin tones. They tend to appear on sun exposed areas and darken with UV exposure. As a child, I remember hearing freckles described as “kissed from the sun” which still feels like a rather lovely way to think about them.
Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)
This is pigmentation left behind after skin inflammation or trauma. It can occur after:
Acne
Eczema
Injury
Over exfoliation
Aggressive Treatments
PIH appears as flat brown or red-brown marks and is especially common in deeper skin tones.
Periorbital Hyperpigmentation (Dark Circles)
These are darker areas around the eyes, influenced by:
Genetics
Diet
Sun exposure
Thin skin revealing underlying blood vessels
This type of pigmentation often needs a combined internal, topical and lifestyle approach.
Hypopigmentation (Light or White Spots)
Hypopigmentation refers to areas where melanin production is reduced or absent, causing lighter or white patches. This can occur due to:
Skin trauma
Inflammation
Certain skin conditions
Previous aggressive treatments
Ingredients That Gently Target Pigmentation
Some of the most effective and well tolerated pigmentation correcting ingredients include:
Kojic Acid Derived from fungi. A tyrosinase inhibitor that blocks the enzyme needed for melanin formation.
Alpha Arbutin Fades pigmentation by inhibiting melanin synthesis.
Vitamin C A powerful antioxidant that brightens the complexion and protects against further pigment formation.
Niacinamide Reduces dark spots, improves uneven tone, and strengthens the skin barrier.
Glycolic Acid & Salicylic Acid Gently exfoliates the surface layers of skin and are particularly effective for PIH.
Retinol (Vitamin A) Increases skin cell turnover, helping fade pigmentation and rejuvenate the skin.
Tranexamic Acid Brightens the complexion and reduces stubborn pigmentation, particularly melasma.
Azelaic Acid Anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and antioxidant. Excellent for PIH and acne related marks.
Peony Flower & Blackcurrant Oil Natural extracts that help reduce melanin production and support a brighter, more even skin tone.
Treatments That Help Pigmentation
The most powerful thing you can do for pigmentation is build a sustainable home care routine that you can commit to daily. Consistency will always outperform a one off treatment. Professional treatments that can support pigmentation correction include:
Enzyme therapies
Peels
Microneedling
Laser and IPL ( not usually suitable for melasma)
The correct treatment choice depends entirely on:
Your pigmentation type
Your skin barrier health
Your lifestyle
Your long term skin goals
The Solace Perspective
Pigmentation is not a flaw. It’s simply your skin responding to hormones, sun, inflammation and life. "
With the right understanding, a gentle plan and consistent care, pigmentation can be softened, brightened and beautifully rebalanced. And that’s where calm, confident skin truly begins.